12 June - Rua

A crisp start to the day, with clear signs this was going to be another stinking hot day!  Our exit was overflowing with pilgrims - goodness knows where Arzua packed them in.

The track reminded us of Oxfam - people,  people,  people and sheltered off road tracks. On this route we knew if we didn't see people (as opposed to waymarkings) we may have taken a wrong turn! So not to be ... 4 hours later (5km/ hour) Rua quickly appeared. Tomorrow we  hope to make the pilgrim's mass at midday.  

Rua is a small pilgrim stop, noted in our guide book for its village church and nothing else.  We have found relaxing rural accommodation with a lovely garden bar and a restaurante with international coins within its brick work. Classic weekend away retreat!

11June- Arzua

Set off on a gorgeous day to Arzua 22 kms away. Clear blue sky, morning light and beautiful views of the twin tower monastery and pretty town as we left . Sobrado dos Monxes is gorgeous, just like so many of the other small towns we have stayed in. The massive, dilapidated but impressive monastery that dominates the town gave us further thought about the cost of restoration and ongoing upkeep of these centuries old buildings as well as the sacrifices that were made to build them in the first place. How many poor could have been fed, clothed and properly housed for that cost? Anyway...

Our lovely host Lisa made us a simple but yum breakfast of scrambled egg, toast, coffee, juice and a really nice cheese from Arzun where we were headed to. 

The track initially was a little hard to find and with the help of some young Californian's we got underway , stopping only for photos with our fellow peregrinos from Spain and coffee in the first few hours .

About halfway through we must have missed a way mark and after consulting out map had no choice but to spend about 8 kms walking towards Arzun on the highway. 

Our convo went along the lines of:

Me: Missed the sign again! How did we do that ? 

Jude: It's a gift we have ...

Angela: We've really mastered it

Me: Practise makes perfect

 Not ideal but we bumped into more people and got back on the track for the last 3 kms where we found more lush countryside and gardens and roses that smell heavenly.

Arzua is where the Camino tracks (the Primativo, French and the Norte) merge and we were warned that we would be inundated with other pilgrims from here for the next 3 days. Yes it's a lot busier but not overwhelming. Quite fun in fact. Tonight we were joined for dinner by John Parker from California. 

Our hotel is full as are the local Albergues. It's very nice and the view from our rooms is amazing. Less than 40kms to go until Santiago de Compestela!!!

10 June : Santa Leocadia to Sabrados dos Monxes

U34 km our biggest day

Started well with coffee, shopping and a friendly big local, they have wolves in Spain .This would explain why we have seen these huge dogs just sitting in the paddocks with the sheep.

The Monasterio de Santa Maria de Sabrados was founded in 952 and rose to prosperity in the late 10 th century when the Abbot of Sabrados became a bishop in Santiago. In 1142 it became the first monastery in Spain to join the Cisterians order - they established a pilgrim hospital in the monastery.

It is in a sad mouldy state today due to it being closed down by the crown. It has so obviously been stopped of any formal glory and the mould through the inside is a shock to behold. ( but well worth seeing)

We visited the Alburgue which is 6€ a night , it is set amongst in the monasterio de Santa Maria de Sabrados.

Very basic accommodation with shared facilities , and everyone rooming in on bunks. These guys looked very hard core up at 6 am to next location often without breakfast. 

We are very spoilt with our coffees and crossiant in the morning before we depart with no back packs just our day packs. They are looking tired and looking forward to completing and getting home to their own beds.

Big lesson is with the packs like life only take what I can carry the rest is not needed!!! 

9 June - Parga-Guitiriz

The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plains! There is a reason for such lush green paddocks. Today started in rain but quickly dried out. Getting closer to Santiago,  so we have seen today a greater mix of paved walkways,  tranquil off road tracks and more pilgrims today than  in the last week (total). Our destination is in the middle of nowhere - both facebook and Blogger locations can't find the place.  We did and managed to shave 4km off a 28km day! What pros!!!